About

Anthony Stark is an avid traveler and photographer, having traveled to all seven continents. Some of his favorite places for photography have been Africa, New Zealand, and Vietnam - his father's birthplace.

Residing in St. Louis, Missouri, Mr. Stark enjoys writing and playing music through his band The Empty Bench, SCUBA diving, motorcycle riding, photography, and traveling. When not working his career in IT Management, he enjoys time with his cat Philmore, everything Harry Potter, and time spent with family and friends.

 FAQs

  • I tend to shoot in pretty extreme conditions. These may include the heat of arid deserts like Wadi Rum in Jordan or Uluru in Australia, the extreme cold weather of Antarctica, the dust in Kenya, or the intense humidity of Costa Rica.

    While all major camera brands offer options for these needs, I use Sony cameras.

    Camera Bodies

    Camera bodies are built for different purposes. Some are for high-resolution - to capture every detail. Others are built for speed - to capture every moment of action, like a bird in flight or a cheetah on the run. Flagship cameras often try to marry the best of both worlds.

    Sony A1 - fast action with high resolution

    Sony A7RIV - higher resolution but not as fast

    Lenses

    Lenses are the most critical aspect of a photographer's gear. Camera bodies come and go, but lenses last longer and have a greater effect on image quality.

    Lenses also dictate how far away from the subject you can be, how much of a scene is in focus, and how much light can be gathered - this allows photography in the late evening or high-speed shots for action.

    "Zoom" lenses typically provide more flexibility, though they suffer in image quality. "Prime" (or fixed) lenses offer better quality, though you are limited to one focal length.

    I use a mix of lenses depending on the subject, the amount of action expected, and the available light.

    Sony 600mm f4 - an ideal lens for bird photography and other wildlife uses

    Sony 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 - flexible telephoto lens and is my primary safari lens

    Tamron 28-200mm 2.8-5.6 - covers a wide range of 'every day' shots

    Sony 20mm f1.8 - primary lens for astrophotography (Milky Way) and landscapes

    Sigma 16mm f1.4 - very wide angle lens, useful for astrophotography (Milky Way), and vast landscapes

    Sony 16-35mm f2.8 - this is my primary lens for underwater photography

    Sony 90mm macro f.2.8 - this is my primary lens for macro photography (getting close to small subjects), including underwater

    Sony Teleconverters (1.4x & 2x) - extends the focal length of any Sony brand lens

    Underwater

    For underwater photography, you need a water / pressure proof 'case' (a housing) to put your camera in. These are often made for a specific brand and model of camera.

    I use a Nauticam housing to bring the Sony A7RIV underwater. This has wide-angle and macro ports, adjustable arms with two strong strobes ('flashes'), and a video light.

    Nauticam Housing for Sony A7RIV

    Kraken Sports Hydra 2500 Video Light

    Sea & Sea Ys-D3 Strobes (x2)

  • While I have traveled with significant others and family, I typically travel solo.

    Trips are usually 3 - 5 weeks in very remote destinations, which doesn't fit everyone's lifestyle.

    I think anyone that gets the chance to travel alone should take it (even if just for a weekend trip). It's a great experience.

  • There is risk in everything you do; it's a matter of understanding it and trying to mitigate it as much as possible.

    While I do travel alone on most trips, I typically have a guide in what would be considered the more dangerous locations.

    Unless connectivity isn't possible, I'm in frequent contact with family, tour operators, and my guide or the accommodation staff.

    I've been told in the past, in no uncertain terms, that I should not go into a "red zone" or stay within the confines of a compound.

  • I'm interested in all sorts of photography: Wildlife, Landscape, Travel, Culture, Underwater, Astrophotography.

    Anything that gets me outside or in a remote area would be my favorite.

    Lately, I've been keen on photographing birds. I've been fortunate to photograph birds on every continent. However, recently, I've been focusing on local birds - parks, reserves, and conservation areas around me during this past spring migration.

  • Social Media

    Facebook | Instagram

    Prints

    Prints | Canvas | Framed | Other

    Photo Books

    Africa & Jordan

 Underwater Photography

  • I am SCUBA Certified through PADI to 130 ft / 40 m.

    • Advanced Open Water

    • Deep Diver

    • Enriched Air (Nitrox)

    • Dry Suit

    • Digital Underwater Photography

  • No. You can get fantastic photographs while snorkeling, swimming, or even wading in the water. The light is easier to manage closer to the surface.

    Some excursions only allow snorkeling. In some cases, the bubbles from traditional SCUBA can scare off or bother the sea life. In other cases, certain species are more prevalent (or more accessible) in the upper water column. This was the case when photographing Whale Sharks in Madagascar.

    Lastly, surface-supplied air systems (or hookah diving) are available. These systems consist of air being pumped down to divers through hoses, typically from a boat. While taking an Open Water Certification course for this type of diving is still suggested, in many cases, it does not require a certification. This is commonly seen in Cage Shark Diving.

  • Dive Gear

    When diving often, it is a safety consideration to have some components of your gear that you own and bring with you (as opposed to renting - which is the norm for traveling divers). In this way, you know how to use each item, which is extremely important in an emergency, and you know it has been properly maintained.

    I bring the following gear with me (as luggage requirements allow - roughly in this order of priority):

    • Shearwater Teric Dive Computer - I always bring this on any dive trip

    • ScubaPro Mask, Fins, Snorkel

    • Various torches ('flashlights'), tank bangers, and other safety devices

    • ScubaPro Hydros Pro BCD (Buoyancy Control Device)

    • ScubaPro Regulator and backup analog gauges

    • Shearwater Wireless Transmitter for gas measurements

    • BARE wetsuit (as needed)

    Underwater Photography

    See FAQs -"What gear do you use?" above.

  • Deepest Dive

    My deepest dive was 107 ft (32 m) in the Great Barrier Reef, Australia.

    I don't enjoy deep dives as much as shallower dives (anywhere up to 40 - 60 ft, but preferably less). There is less light at depth, which creates different lighting conditions. Strobes can be used to bring light and color to a scene when needed.

    It depends on what species I'm trying to photograph and where they can be found.

    Additionally, you can spend less time at depth because:

    a) you breathe more gas at deeper depths due to the gas being compressed

    b) the pressure of the water means you build up more nitrogen in your body, which can cause decompression sickness (or the bends)

    Longest Dive

    The more useful 'record' for photography is my longest dive: 2 hrs 11 min.

    It was at a dive site called "Blue Heron Bridge" near West Palm Beach, FL.

    My max depth on this dive was 25 ft, so I could stay much longer. This is one of my favorite dive sites (definitely my favorite in the US).

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